There is a ton of things that goes on in my head as I'm headed out to hit the surf. My three most important words for myself, "You got this!" The following is an attempt at a play-by-play of Liza's thoughts:
"Let's get this board off the rack!"
"Wetsuit, check. Board, check. Paddle, check."
"Car locked up and ready to roll."
"Oops, slippers still on. Leave them under the car as usual."
"Look at those waves, I can handle those." (I'm always having to hype myself up before I get in the water.)
"You got this."
"I'm definitely catching one today."
"Water is not too cold. Nice."
"You got this Leez." (More hype.)
"Easy."
"Shuffle, shuffle, shuffle." (This one added as my friend just got stung by a sting ray yesterday! ouch!)
"Okay baby (my longboard) let's do this!"
"Shuffle."
"Push the board by the tail over the whitewater."
"Jump on now?"
"Another wave coming."
"No prob. You got this."
"Shuffle."
"Push board."
"Okay NOW Leez."
"Paddle."
"Keep going. Stay on."
"Dang, that's a lot of whitewater."
"Whatever, just don't fall!
"Paddle hard."
"You got this!"
"Paddle straight."
"Stay on."
"Don't fall."
"Paddle."
"Where's the fricken' open water?"
"Man, I'm getting tired already."
"You got this!"
"Paddle harder."
"Finally.."
"Okay, let's stand up now." (I paddle in on my knees.)
"About time. Catch your breath..."
"Now let's try and catch a wave."
"You got this!"
And then it's an entirely new conversation with tons more of, "You got this!!" And someday, I will get it!
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