So here's the advice from the best in the business for those who want to charge big waves:
Get fighting fit- "Anyone can take a couple of waves on the head, but it's dealing with the third, fourth, fifth or even sixth wave in the set that separates the committed charger from the surfer who's out of their depth. Being fit will help you relax in a heavy situation and deal with it."
Equip yourself- "Equipment has everything to do with how you perform. Yes, you need some skill and a bit of balls, but if your equipment is going to work in the waves you are trying to ride, you have no chance."
Paddle like hell- "The golden rule is to paddle as hard as you can, matching the speed of the wave and getting in as early as possible. Don't ease off the gas until you are on your feet and negotiating the drop."
He who hesitates...- "Once you commit, don't back down. 99% of wipeouts are from hesitation."
Learn to read the ocean- "sit and watch the lineup, study where the sets break and how the swell moves in. Watch the way the waterr travels and second guess where waves will break, and how they will break."
Take it like a man (or woman!)- "an important part of surfing heavier waves is being able to cop a beating. It something we all try to avoid, but none of us can escape. Remember: don't panic."
Keep pushing yourself- "By continuously testing yourself, you gain experience and learn a lot about your limits, which in turn bring on more challenges and opportunities. Surfing is a never ending rush like that.
Although I'm not looking to surf big waves ever, all these things I already apply to SUP surfing (thanks to a very knowledgeable SUP surfer who has taught me everything I know.)
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