Thursday, June 23, 2011

The Best Surf Day

"I had the best surf day ever!"  Okay, you've heard me say this before but I also said that it just keeps getting better so get used to hearing me say this time and time again.

Yesterday at San Onofre was a GREAT day...  surfing my favorite spot with my best friend all day, the lightbulb in my head finally going off getting me to catch a ton of fun waves, making a new friend who once lived in South Africa, surfing with a seal and eating an amazing chicken skewers lunch complete with libations.

Thanks Jake for all the info on South Africa beaches.
Let's have another braii when I get back!

Yummy-  tootin' my own horn because I made these
from an Ancient Filipino Recipe :)  

All my hard work and effort is finally paying off.  I'm catching waves -- consistently.  Yesterday at SanO was a fun day.  Things finally clicked.  With my new found confidence, I was catching shoulder-high waves and LOVIN' it.  Hunger usually gets me out of the water fast but this time I was having too much fun and surfed until my stomach could no longer bear the pain.  Another treat on this special day was hanging out with a harbor seal.  Or shall I say, he kept hanging out with me?  He just followed my tail the entire time, including when I caught waves because when I turned around to go back out... there was Blackie (I named him :) )  still tagging along.

It was a long. beautiful day full of surf and sun.  Okay, no sun.  If only the sun popped out -- eh, no matter.  I still had the best surf day ever!!

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