Yesterday at San Onofre was a GREAT day... surfing my favorite spot with my best friend all day, the lightbulb in my head finally going off getting me to catch a ton of fun waves, making a new friend who once lived in South Africa, surfing with a seal and eating an amazing chicken skewers lunch complete with libations.
Thanks Jake for all the info on South Africa beaches. Let's have another braii when I get back! |
Yummy- tootin' my own horn because I made these from an Ancient Filipino Recipe :) |
All my hard work and effort is finally paying off. I'm catching waves -- consistently. Yesterday at SanO was a fun day. Things finally clicked. With my new found confidence, I was catching shoulder-high waves and LOVIN' it. Hunger usually gets me out of the water fast but this time I was having too much fun and surfed until my stomach could no longer bear the pain. Another treat on this special day was hanging out with a harbor seal. Or shall I say, he kept hanging out with me? He just followed my tail the entire time, including when I caught waves because when I turned around to go back out... there was Blackie (I named him :) ) still tagging along.
It was a long. beautiful day full of surf and sun. Okay, no sun. If only the sun popped out -- eh, no matter. I still had the best surf day ever!!
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