I got to surf Dogpatch twice in one week- something I needed and missed. I haven't been surfing in more than two months and today was a reminder about why I started stand up paddling in the first place. I love surfing. Granted, there is so much more I have to learn. And believe me, I've been getting beat down with almost every lesson learned but the cool part is that it doesn't stop me. I'll get better and I'll have less bruises sooner or later.
Today I got caught inside a big set on three different occasions. In the past, I'd let it freak me out and then I couldn't surf the rest of the day. Yeah, I got tumbled around today, pulled under more than a few times and almost hit in the face by my board but I still paddled back out.
And in between all the wipeouts, there is always that one ride I'll take home with me for the day. That's what makes me want to keep surfing... The rides keep getting better.
No comments:
Post a Comment