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| Random photo: taken at Garden of the Gods in Colorado. |
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Reality Check
As soon as I think I have my confidence level up, she (the ocean) gives me a reality check to put me back in my place. She tests me every now and then to see if I'm worthy for a ride and to humble me so that I always remember who's boss. I thought I was ready for a set wave and was brought back down to reality in a quickness. I catapulted in front of my board and was sucked under like being tumbled in a washing machine. Once I came up for air, another wave was about to crash on top of me. I was in the impact zone... familiar territory and NOT fun. I was freaked out and was done for the day. My legs couldn't stop trembling. I wasn't sure if it was the cold, or fear, or both.
Advice from an experienced SUP surfer: "Charge It!" He was watching me and said that I looked like a deer in headlights when I stalled at the lip. You can't hesitate. Make the decision to do it and just charge though. Easier said than done, huh? I believe it's good advice though. I'm not saying we need to just be gung-ho without being smart or safe about things. But when I make the decision to do something, including catching a head-high wave, I need to go at it 110% with no hesitation. My new mantra has just changed from "Zero to Sixty" to "CHARGE!"
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Yeah, I can get pretty freaked out when I'm caught on the inside and getting worked over. I try my best to stay calm and just dive underneath each wave until it's over. But sometimes my heart rate just shoots sky high and things get a little scary.
ReplyDeleteI find that the more I condition my body to use less oxygen (i.e. running, lifting weights, etc), the more confident I am out on the waves. Maybe it's the simple fact that I know I can do more with less. But it's been working for me. I know there will be yet more struggles in the impact zone but I try to trust my gut and let it tell me when the waves are too big for me to go out.
Hi Jake- I figured that the more times I get out in the water, no matter what the conditions, I'll feel more comfortable with what comes my way. I'm painfully learning that I'm not ready to just jump into any surf, especially on big days. My thought was that if I could push myself to go out on bigger waves then I'll improve more quickly, such as when I learned to snowboard by hitting the top peaks, rather than the bunny slopes. I'm trying to gain more confidence and proficiency on the smaller waves so I can manage the bigger ones. I just get so frustrated and impatient with myself sometimes. My pride definitely gets the best of me because I hate walking out of the water looking like a wimp. Anyway, I know it will take precious, quality time to learn how to surf well. I've been taking every moment of my vacation to do that. I'm working on my conditioning this new year as well by hitting the weights. And believe me, I'm not a gym rat but I'm doing what I need to do to improve my game.
ReplyDeleteThanks for commenting and I hope you have a fabulous new year!!