Surf to Exhaustion

Have you ever done anything until you're totally exhausted? I ran a marathon once, at the end I could barely walk to the car (my baby girl had to carry me). Today, I surfed basically all day long! It was a marathon of surfing and it was a constant day of learning because I had to practice riding on my backhand.

Surfing on your backhand happens when you are heading in a direction that does not allow you to face the wave. Backhand surfing is more difficult than surfing on your front hand, you have to rock back onto your heels to make the board turn (an odd feeling) and you have to twist and turn, looking over your shoulder to see the wave. It's tough and frustrating, especially when you can surf competently on your fore hand and you see lots of waves running away from you. It's not easy to do, but it's a skill you have to master if you're going to do it all in surfing.

Here I am, surfing on my back hand- totally exhausted... but totally happy!

This spot is so fun- the wave is super long and the water is almost the perfect temperature... not too cold, not too warm and really blue. It's the kind of place that keeps you coming back for more- all day long- 'til you just can't do it NO MORE!