The surf was pretty "fugly" today but stubborn me still paddled out because I was just in the mood to surf. The thing of it is that I should have learned my lesson this winter when I was pitched over and over again in the infamous Coronado closeouts. I have a tough time surfing this shorebreak, especially when it's low tide like it was today. It's takes the experience of reading these waves and getting on the shoulder so that you don't get thrown over the peak of these closeouts.
So here's a play by play on what I thought would be a primo ride today. These were my thoughts to myselft:
"Yeah, check out that set."
"Looks like a good one."
"Start paddling."
"Okay, looks like my timing is okay. Keep paddling."
As the wave begins to form, "Paddle hard."
I'm looking at the wall of the wave and literally say, "Yeah!" aloud in my excitement.
I was feeling confident, "This ride is going to be sweet!"
My nose started diving, "No, no, don't dive. Step back."
I stepped way back on the board. The nose wasn't budging.
Then it feels like something in the wave has a hold of your fin, the wave pitches to a point and...
There I go, head over heels into the water, board follows suit.
"Damn, that sucked."
As I turn to go back, another wave is about to land on my head.
I go under but not deep enough so I get pulled with the current.
"Damn, that really sucked!"
Take 3.
The positive outcome from this was I jumped back on my board and paddled back to try to catch more waves. I didn't realize until afterwards that I didn't let it phase me like it would have in the past. Also, I'm learning that sometimes the day just isn't right for surfing and you can't force trying to catch waves. I should have figured that out before I jumped in the water and saw that there was only one surfer out there.
Oh well, you LIVE and LEARN. That's what I'm all about.
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