Long weekends are fun until you head to work on Tuesday and need to complete 5 days of work in 4 days. So you need to make the long weekend worth it! I surfed every day at my favorite surf spot, the Dog Patch in San Onofre. Waking up at 4:00am isn't so bad when you know you'll have a prime parking spot, surf all day, BBQ and nap if you need.
If you're a surfer, you know that a huge South swell rolled through last week and the surf was crankin'. Unfortunately, with audits coming up I couldn't squeeze in any time during the week to surf, not even a "sick" day. I was overly-excited to get out on the surf when Saturday finally arrived.
We thought for sure we'd be the first to get into the SanO Beach since we got there around 5:30am. To our surprise, there was a line of cars already waiting. No problem. We were still early enough to get in and find a parking spot.
The surf was pretty junkie Saturday morning but that didn't stop me from going in. It got better as the morning clouds burned off and I "charged it". I went for every wave that I could and as a result, caught a ton of them. I'm practicing my turns and am learning to "pump" up and down the face of the wave.
I hear another big swell may be coming our way this week. I hope to run into you out on the water
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